Romanesco: fractal beauty from the brassica bed

I harvested the first Romanesco heads this week and had to stop and stare.

Those luminous chartreuse spirals feel like a little lesson in pattern and patience. I grow Romanesco because it is delicious, beautiful, and surprisingly resilient in a cool temperate garden like Daylesford.

What is romanesco

Romanesco is a brassica that sits between cauliflower and broccoli. It cooks like cauliflower, with a flavour that is slightly sweeter and nuttier. The texture is tender but holds shape beautifully, which makes it perfect for roasting and for dishes where you want structure on the plate.

Why I plant it

I like plants that serve more than one role. Romanesco offers food, sculptural presence, and a steady supply of leaves for the kitchen (and chooks!). The heads become seasonal markers in the bed, and when they finally appear it feels like the garden offering a small celebration.

How I grow romanesco in a cool temperate garden

Timing

• Sow in late summer to early autumn for spring harvests. In cooler pockets, start seed in trays under cover, then transplant once seedlings are sturdy.

• You can also sow in late winter for late spring to early summer heads if your season allows. Stagger a few sowings to spread the harvest.

Site and soil

• Full sun and rich, living soil are non-negotiable. I prep beds with compost and a light sprinkle of a balanced, organic fertiliser, then mulch after transplanting.

• Brassicas like consistent moisture. My wicking beds hold an even soil profile which helps prevent stress and buttoning. Water at the base rather than overhead to discourage disease.

Spacing

• Give each plant room to develop a full head. I use 45 centimetres between plants and about 45 centimetres between rows. Good airflow is essential.

Protection and care

• Cabbage white butterflies adore brassicas. I keep insect exclusion netting over young plants. If you are not netting, check daily and remove any green caterpillars by hand.

• Feed little and often. I alternate seaweed and compost teas through the season and keep mulch topped up to regulate soil temperature.

• Romanesco appreciates cool nights for head formation. If a sudden warm spell arrives, keep water consistent and shade the bed lightly in the afternoon if needed.

Rotation and companions

• Rotate brassicas yearly to protect soil health and reduce disease.

• Companion plant with dill, calendula, and sweet alyssum to support beneficial insects and soften the edge of the bed. I’ve planted this lots with spinach, lettuce and radicchio for a diverse and thriving polyculture 

Harvest and storage

• Pick when the head is tight, uniform, and firm. Use a sharp knife and keep a few leaves attached to protect the florets.

• Store in the crisper wrapped loosely. Eat within a few days for best flavour.

Small-space tip
Romanesco is a statement plant. If you only have room for one, give it pride of place at the end of a bed or in a large wicking container and underplant with herbs or salad greens.

Kitchen notes and serving suggestions

Roasted romanesco with yoghurt tahini and pomegranate molasses

Break into florets. Toss with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and cracked pepper. Add a Middle Eastern spice profile such as cumin, coriander, or za’atar. Roast hot until caramelised at the edges. Finish with a yoghurt and tahini drizzle, a thread of pomegranate molasses, fresh herbs, and toasted nuts.

More ways to serve

• Toss warm florets with anchovy, lemon zest, chilli, and breadcrumbs.

• Steam until just tender, then dress with olive oil, lemon, and parsley for a simple side.

• Cut into small florets for a quick tray bake with chickpeas and red onion.

• Use the leaves as you would kale. Slice and sauté with garlic and a squeeze of lemon.

Cook’s tip

Do not overcook. Romanesco is at its best when the spirals stay intact and there is still a little bite.

Sustainability notes

I like to use the whole plant. The leaves are excellent, the core can be thinly sliced for stir-fries, and any trim goes to the chocks, compost or worm farm. If a plant wants to flower and you do not need seed, let it. The bees will thank you.

Troubleshooting at a glance

• Tiny or loose heads: heat or stress. Keep water steady, mulch well, and plant for the cool end of your season.

• Caterpillars: net early, hand-pick, and encourage beneficial insects with companion flowers.

• Yellowing leaves: a sign of nutrient drawdown. Side-dress with compost and water in.

Continue your gardening journey with me

If you enjoy this kind of content, my workshops offer more detail and guidance on design, productivity and seasonal care.

If you are building your garden from home right now, my ebooks on Wicking Bed Gardens and Introduction to Backyard Chicken Keeping offer practical step by step guidance that pairs well with the workshops.

I share seasonal tips, behind the scenes at Little Cottage on a Hill, and new resources through my newsletter. Subscribe to receive my entire plant list from the garden as a personal thank you.

You may want to check out my related content below:

Rooted in Reflection, Growing with Intention – Explore the intentionality behind creating a garden that serves both purpose and beauty.

The Power of Noticing: How a Garden Wander Led Me to Morels – Explore the quiet magic of noticing the small wonders that grow in your garden.

If You Could Learn Anything From Me This Year, What Would It Be? – Discover what I’ve been reflecting on the workshops I’ve shared over the years—and dreaming into what might come next.

Stay connected for more seasonal inspiration:
Instagram | Facebook | Gardenstead | LinkedIn | Pinterest | YouTube | Website | Newsletter

Thanks so much for following along.
Natasha xx

October garden tasks for Australian climates

October brings a sense of momentum in the garden.

Soil is warming, days are stretching, and spring growth is accelerating. This is the month to keep sowing steadily, build structure, and prepare for the abundant months ahead.

Shared tasks for all climates

These are the October jobs I keep as my base checklist:

• Mulch to lock in moisture and protect warming soil.
  

• Feed fruit trees and top-dress beds with compost.
  

• Plant out spring annuals, evergreens, and citrus while soil is still soft.
  

• Tie up climbing crops and trellis where needed.
  

• Pinch tips on herbs such as basil to encourage bushier growth.
  

• Keep sowing in succession for a continuous harvest.
  

• Watch for pests and act early with gentle, natural control.
  

• Water deeply and less often to encourage strong root systems.

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Seeds and seedlings by climate

Here are the October highlights by climate.

Temperate

Warm season crops take off now.
Try: tomatoes, basil, beans, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, corn, melons, capsicum, eggplant, lettuce, rocket, silverbeet. Harden off seedlings and plant out once frost risk has passed.

Cool and alpine

Frosts may still linger in higher areas, so stay watchful.
Try: beetroot, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, peas, silverbeet, spring onions, radish. Start warmth lovers like tomatoes, basil, zucchini, and corn in trays and transplant once conditions settle.

Subtropical

Conditions are reliably warm, with storms possible along the coast.
Try: beans, cucumber, capsicum, eggplant, pumpkin, corn, okra, melons, sweet potato, taro, basil, coriander, dill. Plant passionfruit and keep mulching heavily.

Tropical

The build-up towards the wet season begins, with increasing humidity.
Try: snake beans, cowpeas, okra, zucchini, sweet corn, sweet potato, taro, basil, coriander. Shade cloth or afternoon protection helps tender crops.

Arid

Heat is climbing quickly, so protect soil and conserve water.
Try: tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, zucchini, pumpkin, melons, okra, corn, basil, oregano. Plant in cool parts of the day and mulch deeply.

How I work with October

I see October as the turning point of spring — the garden shifts from tentative beginnings to full momentum. I keep sowing little and often, making sure I’m not overwhelmed all at once. I also start building in structure now: staking tomatoes, weaving in trellises, and tying up climbers before they surge. It’s about keeping ahead of growth so that abundance feels generous rather than unruly.

Quick checklist

• Mulch and feed fruit trees.
  

• Succession sow warm-season crops.
  

• Tie in climbing beans, peas, and cucumbers.
  

• Pinch herbs like basil.
  

• Protect tender crops in frost or harsh sun zones.
  

• Water deeply and mulch to conserve soil moisture.

Continue your gardening journey with me

If you enjoy this kind of content, my workshops offer more detail and guidance on design, productivity and seasonal care.

If you are building your garden from home right now, my ebooks on Wicking Bed Gardens and Introduction to Backyard Chicken Keeping offer practical step by step guidance that pairs well with the workshops.

You may want to check out my related content below:

Workshops are back. Gathering again for Spring – Discover the rest of the years workshops — from Garden Design, Productive Gardens, Wicking Beds and Medicinal Gardens.

Rooted in Reflection, Growing with Intention – Explore the intentionality behind creating a garden that serves both purpose and beauty.

September garden tasks for Australian climates — Explore last months quick tips and my must dos.

Stay connected for more seasonal inspiration:
Instagram | Facebook | Gardenstead | LinkedIn | Pinterest | YouTube | Website | Newsletter

Thanks so much for following along.
Natasha xx

The Medicinal Garden Workshop with Caroline Parker & Natasha Morgan

Step into the magic of nature

With Caroline Parker of The Cottage Herbalist and Natasha Morgan at the idyllic Little Cottage On A Hill. Together, they will guide you on a journey through the healing power of plants bringing them into your everyday life from your own garden that nurtures the body, mind, and soul. Whether you’re new to medicinal plants and their uses, a seasoned gardener or just starting, this workshop will provide valuable insights and hands-on experience to help you cultivate the use of healing plants in your gardens and everyday life. 

Date: Sunday 2 November 2025

Time: 10 am - 1 pm

Location: Natasha’s Studio & Garden, Little Cottage On A Hill, Daylesford, VIC

Buy your ticket via the shop.

From edible treats to therapeutic remedies, unearth the healing potential of plants, both wild and cultivated. Come for a day of healing botanical goodness, learning to make healing treats for the body, mind and soul.  Delve into the medicinal benefits of botanicals by creating your own hand-made delights and celebrate the release of  Caroline’s book, ‘The Medicinal Garden’.

Enjoy a day of sumptuous experiences in a gorgeous space with lovely people. Natasha and Caroline will share discussions on how to bring plants and their incredible healing properties into your everyday life in the simplest yet most precious ways.

About the Workshop:

Join Caroline Parker (aka @thecottageherbalist), and Natasha Morgan for a unique hands-on workshop in the idyllic setting of Little Cottage On A Hill, Daylesford. Dive deep into the world of botanical healing as Caroline shares her expertise in creating natural, healing remedies.

Caroline is a degree-qualified herbalist, author, farmer, forager and facilitator.  She is obsessed with cups of tea, getting her hands dirty, growing beautiful herbs and flowers, and foraging for wild weeds and herbs. Caroline’s small home-based studio, in the cool and misty Wombat Forest, is where you'll find her blending up award-winning teas and tisanes. 

What You’ll Learn and Create:

• An immunity-boosting botanical syrup

• A magical medicinal balm for gardeners and so much more!

• A weedy pesto/salsa from foraged botanicals that will transform any meal

Participants will receive beautiful botanicals to use on the day, as well as recipes to follow and take home, ensuring you can continue creating medicinal magic long after the workshop. Be welcomed in Natasha’s idyllic garden world to pick from and enjoy during a guided tour. Of course, there will also be pots of Caroline’s award-winning hand-blended tea and a sumptuous long table morning tea of freshly baked botanically infused healing treats (sweet and savoury), beautiful company and conversation!

Tickets are extremely limited, so grab some friends, your camera or phone to take pics, and come to Daylesford for the day—just do it quickly! You don’t want to miss out.

Note: Caroline will have her latest book ‘The Medicinal Garden’ available for purchase and signing on the day.

Continue your gardening journey with me

See what other workshops I offer, you’ll find everything from guidance of design, productivity and seasonal care.

If you are building your garden from home right now, my ebooks on Wicking Bed Gardens and Introduction to Backyard Chicken Keeping offer practical step by step guidance that pairs well with the workshops.

You may want to check out my related content below:

Workshops are back. Gathering again for Spring – Discover the rest of the years workshops — from Garden Design, Productive Gardens, Wicking Beds and Medicinal Gardens.

Rooted in Reflection, Growing with Intention – Explore the intentionality behind creating a garden that serves both purpose and beauty.

Stay connected for more seasonal inspiration:
Instagram | Facebook | Gardenstead | LinkedIn | Pinterest | YouTube | Website | Newsletter

Thanks so much for following along.
Natasha xx

September garden tasks for Australian climates

September brings the first real lift in the garden. Soil is waking up, buds are moving, and it is time to set a steady spring rhythm.

Images by Amber Gardener

Find your climate

Across Australia, the month’s advice is grouped by climate — temperate, cool and alpine, subtropical, tropical and arid. Each region has its own priorities for what to sow now, and whether to direct sow, sow in trays, or transplant.

Shared tasks for all climates

These are the recurring September jobs I keep as a checklist at the potting bench:

• Mulch garden beds while the soil is moist and gradually warming.

• Last chance to plant bare rooted deciduous trees, shrubs and vines before real heat arrives. Container grown plants can go in through spring.

• Plant evergreen shrubs and trees including citrus. This is also a good window to relocate established evergreens.

• Feed fruit trees if you didn’t in late winter. Clean away spent growth on perennial herbaceous plants.

• Propagate by cuttings or layering. Divide established perennials such as chives.

• Tie in berry canes before the spring surge. Plant passionfruit where suitable.

• Harden off August seedlings for 7 to 10 days before planting out.

Seeds and seedlings by climate

Here are quick, climate-specific highlights for sowing and planting in September.

Temperate

Begin warm season crops under cover, and direct sow cool tolerant staples.
Try: tomatoes, basil, climbing or bush beans, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, sweet corn, plus greens like lettuce, rocket and silverbeet. Start frost tender plants in trays if frost risk remains.

Cool and alpine

Frosts and even late snow are still possible in higher areas. Favour trays and protected spots for warmth.
Try: beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, silverbeet, spring onions and radish. Start warmth lovers such as tomatoes, basil, squash and sweet corn in trays, then transplant once conditions settle.

Subtropical

Conditions are mild to warm with some storm activity along the coast. A wide range is possible.
Try: beans, cucumber, eggplant, capsicum, pumpkin, sweet corn, okra, rockmelon, watermelon, herbs such as basil, dill and coriander, plus sweet potato and taro in suitable sites.

Tropical

Dry season heat builds with rising humidity. Choose crops that relish warmth.
Try: cowpeas, okra, sweet corn, sweet potato, taro, basil and zucchini.

Arid

Days are warming quickly. Work with heat adapted species and keep waterwise practices front of mind.
Try: tomato, eggplant, capsicum, zucchini, pumpkin, rockmelon, watermelon, okra, sweet corn, and herbs such as basil and oregano.

How I work with September

I organise spring sowing in small, frequent batches rather than one big push. It spreads the harvest, reduces risk and keeps the workload more even. If you are in a frost-prone pocket, keep warmth lovers in trays a little longer and plant out once nights are reliably mild.

Quick checklist

• Mulch beds and top up paths.

• Plant or relocate evergreens, and complete any bare root planting.

• Feed fruit trees and tidy perennials.

• Start spring sowing by climate, using trays for warmth lovers where frost is possible.

• Tie berry canes, start passionfruit in suitable areas, and keep pond care light but regular.

Continue your gardening journey with me

If you enjoy this kind of content, my workshops offer more detail and guidance on design, productivity and seasonal care.

If you are building your garden from home right now, my ebooks on Wicking Bed Gardens and Introduction to Backyard Chicken Keeping offer practical step by step guidance that pairs well with the workshops.

You may want to check out my related content below:

Workshops are back. Gathering again for Spring – Discover the rest of the years workshops — from Garden Design, Productive Gardens, Wicking Beds and Medicinal Gardens.

Rooted in Reflection, Growing with Intention – Explore the intentionality behind creating a garden that serves both purpose and beauty.

Stay connected for more seasonal inspiration:
Instagram | Facebook | Gardenstead | LinkedIn | Pinterest | YouTube | Website | Newsletter

Thanks so much for following along.
Natasha xx

Writing cool climate gardening for ABC Organic Gardener

Well they say when it rains it pours, and it seems spring really is full of promise, and good news!

And I’ve definitely got some exciting news to share. Drumroll…. I’ve joined ABC Organic Gardener as their cool climate writer, beginning with the Spring issue, number 160. Out of just a handful of writers chosen to represent the different climate zones across Australia, I’ll be one of them — writing eight columns a year from the rhythms of a cool climate garden.

It feels a little surreal, to be honest. I’ve been reading this magazine for years. It’s one of the very few that has always stayed true to what matters — grounded, seasonal gardening knowledge you can take straight outside. No fluff. Just practical wisdom and inspiration from gardeners around the country. To now be adding my voice to that mix feels both humbling and pretty thrilling.

A huge thank you to ABC Organic Gardener magazine and to Chloe Thomson (@beantheredugthat), the brand new editor, for inviting me into the fold. I’m so looking forward to working alongside the other writers, whose work I’ve admired for such a long time.

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What cool climate gardening means to me

A productive garden is not only a source of beauty and what the garden offers. It is a way to live well. Cool climates ask us to be considered and seasonally responsive. We work with short summers, crisp nights and soil that asks for patience. The work becomes an experience of attention.

We observe light, water, wind and shelter. We create microclimates to extend the season. We choose plants for resilience, structure, scent and food. We build soil and the rest follows.

My approach is design led and hands on. I think in spaces, edges and rhythm. I use simple seasonal tasks to keep things moving. I lean on the quiet, layered architecture of a compost bay, worm systems that hum away, and planting that serves more than one role. This is how I’ve come to understand how to grow vegetables in a cool climate — through design thinking, daily practice and a willingness to keep observing.

What to expect in my column

Each column will be seasonal and written through a cool climate lens — practical, design-aware, and rooted in what’s happening right now. You can expect:

• Timing that matches short growing windows — from when to start warm-season crops indoors, to when to direct sow cool-season staples.
   

• Succession strategies for steady harvests — lettuce, rocket, mustard and more to keep greens coming.
   

• Soil and compost care that’s do-able and regenerative — turning compost, top-dressing with worm castings, cutting down green manures before seed.
   

• Fruit and berry tasks that matter in cool climates — thinning blossoms, tying canes, frost protection, even small tricks like cockatoo deterrents.
   

• Design thinking folded into the everyday — creating microclimates, working with frost pockets, using shelter and mulch to hold warmth and moisture.
   

• Checklists you can take outside — clear, seasonal action points so your garden stays productive and abundant.

Every column will be written for cool climate gardeners who want their spring, summer, autumn and winter to work harder — showing how to grow abundantly even with shorter seasons and lingering frosts.

An invitation to the community

More than anything, I hope the column feels like a conversation. Each garden is different, but the challenges of frost, short summers and fast shifts of season are ones we share.

So I’d love to hear from you: what cool climate questions are on your mind this spring? Seedlings, frost, wind, succession planting? Tell me what you’re experimenting with — your insights will help shape what I write next.

Continue your gardening journey with me

If this resonates with where you’re at in your own garden, I’d love to welcome you into a workshop. Explore current workshops here. They’re designed to give you the skills and confidence to grow with beauty, abundance and purpose.

If you are building your garden from home right now, my ebooks on Wicking Bed Gardens and Introduction to Backyard Chicken Keeping offer practical step by step guidance that pairs well with the workshops.

You may want to check out my related content below:

Redefining Productive: What it means in my Garden

Stay connected for more seasonal inspiration:
Instagram | Facebook | Gardenstead | LinkedIn | Pinterest | YouTube | Website | Newsletter

Thanks so much for following along.
Natasha xx

Caring for Ornamental Grasses – When (and Whether) to Cut Back

As we head toward winter here in the southern hemisphere, it’s the time of year when I’m often asked: Should I be cutting back my grasses now?

My answer, more often than not, is not yet.

For many of us, ornamental grasses are still holding strong—bleached, upright, architectural. They continue to offer form, movement, and quiet seasonal interest right through the cooler months. Cutting them back too early removes not just their visual contribution, but also the habitats they offer to insects and birds.

So if you’re unsure what to do right now in late May, my suggestion is this: observe closely, and wait if you can. Let the garden keep offering what it still has to give.

Below, I’ve shared what I do in my own garden at this time of year—including when (and whether) to cut back each type of grass, how to divide them, and how to support them through the seasons.

Why I return to grasses, again and again

I return to grasses time and time again. They’re a favourite go-to in my garden design toolkit—they offer structure and softness, but also bring a kind of seasonal rhythm that anchors the garden and that just keeps on giving.

They catch the light, respond to the breeze, and shift with the seasons—moving from verdant to architectural, continuing to anchor the space even through winter.

That’s why I leave mine standing for as long as I can.

Here at Little Cottage on a Hill, the 27-metre long northern planting—filled with Miscanthus, Calamagrostis, Panicum, Molinia and others—does so much of the heavy lifting during the cooler months. It softens the boundary, offers a sense of enclosure, and holds a rhythm at the garden’s edge.

But eventually, they do need cutting back. And each one has its own rhythm.

When to cut back – species by species

Miscanthus (e.g. ‘Eileen Quinn’, ‘Kleine Fontaine’, ‘Yakushima Dwarf’)
Leave standing through winter. Cut back in late winter to early spring, just before new shoots emerge. Trim to around 10–20cm (4–8").

Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’
Often pushes fresh growth early. Cut back in late winter, just before the green blades return. Trim to around 10–15cm (4–6").

Panicum (e.g. ‘Blue Steel’, ‘Iron Maiden’)
Hold their form well into winter. Cut back in late winter or early spring, down to 10–15cm (4–6").

Andropogon scoparius ‘Blaze’
Cut back just before new growth appears in late winter.

Molinia arundinacea
Cut back in late winter. These often flatten with heavy rain or frost, but their form is still beautiful when caught in low light or mist.

And once they’re cut? Don’t be too quick to compost what’s left behind.

Spent grasses make beautiful materials for vases, loose seasonal arrangements, or even twisted into wreaths. Their fine structure, bleached tones, and natural curves bring a quiet, sculptural quality indoors. I often gather armfuls of Miscanthus or Calamagrostis to use around the house—nothing too styled, just simply arranged in a jug or laid across a shelf.

Why not cut grasses back in autumn?

It’s a question I’m asked often—and I understand why. For years, autumn clean-up was the default. But I’ve found that grasses give so much more when left in place:

• They provide visual structure and softness when everything else is pared back

• They shelter overwintering insects and offer food for birds

• They create contrast against bare branches, frosts, and low winter light

• They add sound to the garden—seedheads rattling softly in the breeze

Unless the plant has collapsed or rotted at the base, I always choose to leave it be.

Can they be divided? What about in winter?

If a grass is thinning in the centre or starting to dominate a space, division is a simple way to rejuvenate it or create new plantings.

But winter isn’t the ideal time to divide. Most ornamental grasses are dormant through the colder months, and disturbing them too early can lead to stress, rot, or poor re-establishment.

Instead, wait until early spring—just as new growth begins to show. That’s when the crown is active, and divisions settle in more easily. I usually look for the first signs of green shoots before lifting and splitting a clump.

Use a sharp spade to divide the clump cleanly, replant or pot up the divisions, and water them in well. With the full growing season ahead, they’ll re-establish quickly.

Do they need feeding or mulching?

Most ornamental grasses are fairly low maintenance. I do mulch lightly with compost or aged mulch in early spring after cutting back—not to push excessive growth, but to support soil health and give the plants a good start for the season.

Are all grasses safe to leave through winter?

In wetter climates or heavy soils, some grasses can be prone to rotting at the crown if left standing too long. If a grass has flopped or shows signs of decay, it’s perfectly fine to cut it back a little earlier. As always: observe the plant, and respond accordingly.

Can I grow ornamental grasses in pots or small spaces?

Absolutely. Grasses can thrive in containers and smaller gardens—especially those with upright, clump-forming habits. Some of my favourites include:

• Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ – strong vertical structure that holds its shape beautifully

• Panicum ‘Blue Steel’ – upright with soft, airy flowering plumes through late summer

• Miscanthus ‘Eileen Quinn’ – compact and elegant, ideal for pots or tight borders

The key is choosing varieties that are more restrained in size, and matching their mature height to the scale and depth of the container. A tall grass in a shallow pot will never thrive—so I always make sure the root zone has room to stretch, and the proportions are balanced.

A favourite pairing: grasses, Echinops and Echinacea pallida

One of the things I’ve observed this past year is how well Echinops works structurally in combination with grasses—particularly Calamagrostis. Where I’d planted Echinops ritro just in front of a drift of Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’, the tall, rigid stems of the Echinops acted almost like a scaffold—quietly holding the grasses upright and preventing them from flopping in the wind.

It’s a small detail, but it’s shifted how I think about layering structure in the 27-metre north-facing verge bed. This winter, I’m propagating more Echinops from saved seed so I can carry that rhythm further through the planting. Grasses and Echinops have become one of my favourite combinations—offering contrast, resilience, and structure that carries through the seasons.

I love the way Echinops brings both edge and softness: thistle-like, globe-shaped flowers in mid-summer, followed by intricate seedheads that hold their form through winter. Their upright stems catch the light and hold their line long after flowering is finished—adding texture and subtle architecture to the garden in its quieter months.

Similarly, I’ve long admired the way Echinacea pallida moves with some of the finer, shorter grasses. There’s something so quietly graceful in the pairing—the fine, reflexed petals of the pallida drooping elegantly around a cone of dusky seed, mirrored by the movement of surrounding grasses. Miscanthus ‘Eileen Quinn’ works especially well here—tightly clumped, upright, and modest in scale without losing presence.

Other compact grasses I return to for these kinds of pairings include:

• Panicum ‘Blue Steel’ – fine-textured with gentle autumn tones

• Miscanthus ‘Kleine Fontaine’ – with a lovely upright form

I like to plant in drifts of four or five—a rhythm that brings coherence without feeling too uniform. It’s a tip shared with me by my dear friend Lily Langham, and it’s one I return to often. Whether it’s grasses, Echinacea, or Echinops, that repetition adds a softness and strength to the planting—giving enough body to hold space while still allowing for movement and light.

These combinations bring layered interest, seasonal movement, and a gentle wildness to planting—anchoring the space, yet always shifting with light and breeze.

Where I source my grasses

If you’re looking to introduce more ornamental grasses into your own garden, I’m often asked where I source mine from. These are nurseries I’ve personally used and return to again and again—for their quality, range, and thoughtful curation of plants suited to Australian conditions:

• Antique Perennials – in King Lake, with a beautiful range of grasses and perennials that work beautifully in seasonal planting

• Lambley Nursery and Gardens – in Ascot, known for their dry-climate plant palette and strong garden performance

• The Diggers Club – online and their wonderful three Victoria locations, especially good for accessible, well-labelled plants and beginner-friendly information

If you know of any other specialist nursery you trust, I’d love to hear.

Wherever you source your plants, make sure to check the mature size, form, and growth habit—it makes all the difference when selecting grasses for the right rhythm, scale, and movement in your space. I’ve made mistakes in the past, assuming that Miscanthus ‘Yukashima Dwarf’ was in fact a dwarf, and I can guarantee you it certainly is not! (I’ll be shifting a clump of it this winter away from the front of a bed!!)

Some things I’ve learnt over time

• Leave grasses standing through winter if they’re still holding well

• Cut back in late winter to early spring, just before new growth appears

• Divide in early spring—not winter—when growth begins

• Mulch lightly after cutting back

• Observe your climate and plant condition before acting

• Use spent grass stems for sculptural arrangements or natural wreaths

You may want to check out my related content below:

My Top 3 Grasses For All Seasons Gardens – Discover the best ornamental grasses that bring year-round beauty and structure to your garden.

Curious about ornamental grasses?

If you’re exploring how to bring beauty, softness, and structure into your garden—whether through boundary planting, small courtyard moments, or grasses that catch the light just so—I share more in my e-books. They offer guidance on planting design, seasonal care, and combinations that bring function and beauty together.

→ Browse the e-books for more insight into thoughtful planting and garden layering.
→ Share this post with friends who love grasses as much as you do.
→ Sign up for the newsletter to receive seasonal tips, workshop updates, and more from Little Cottage on a Hill.

Thanks so much for following along.
Natasha xx

For glimpses into workshops, daily life, and my thoughts from Little Cottage on a Hill, you can find me on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn, and YouTube. And if you’d like a more personal update, subscribe to my Newsletter for a monthly note on what’s growing, what’s inspiring me, and what’s next.

Click the links below to stay connected—I’d love to have you along for the journey.

May in the Garden: Slowing Down, Tending What Matters

As May unfolds, the Little Cottage On A Hil garden here in Daylesford, Victoria, begins to slow. The light softens. The days shorten. There’s a quietness that settles in if you let yourself notice it.

This is a working month — not the fast, frantic kind of work that spring demands, but the steady, grounding kind. Clearing, planting, moving things to better places. Making the sorts of decisions that shape not just this season, but the ones to come.

It’s the last month of autumn… and it matters.

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Across Every Australian Climate: The Quiet Work of May

No matter where you garden in Australia — cool mountains, dry inland plains, lush subtropical backyards — the rhythm in May is much the same. It’s a time to:

• Plant trees, shrubs, climbers, and perennials while the soil still holds some warmth.

• Lift and divide perennials that have outgrown their space, giving tired clumps a new lease on life.

• Cut back spent berry canes and tidy deciduous shrubs.

• Compost fallen leaves, layering them to feed the soil.

• Sow cool-season green manures like broad beans, mustard, or vetch to build soil fertility.

• Strengthen the structure of your garden: repair trellises, replace stakes, check tree ties before the winter winds arrive.

It’s not glamorous work. But it’s the work that sets up a garden to thrive quietly through winter and burst back with strength in spring.

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May by Australian Climate Zone: Knowing What to Lean Into

Every garden carries its own micro-season, but May still offers some broad guideposts depending where you are.

Cool and Alpine Climates

(Think Canberra, Hobart, and the high country)

• Frosts are on their way, and the coldest places may even have had one already.

• Sow hardy greens like rocket, spinach, and broad beans.

• Start lifting parsnips now — a brush with frost only makes them sweeter.

• Divide rhubarb crowns while the soil is still workable.

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Temperate Climates

(Think Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth)

• Rain is more frequent now, especially in Perth and Adelaide.

• It’s a good month to sow peas, snow peas, rocket, mizuna, lettuce, and broad beans.

• Plant garlic, shallots, and strawberries if you haven’t already.

• Begin winter pruning on fruit trees and ornamentals once the leaves have fallen and the garden’s skeleton is easier to read.

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Subtropical Climates

(Think Brisbane, Northern NSW)

• May is generous here — mild, sunny, forgiving. (Hopefully, the rains are giving you some sort of reprieve!)

• Sow beetroot, carrots, broccoli, fennel, onions, silverbeet, and snow peas.

• It’s also the right time to plant garlic, shallots, and strawberry runners.

• Keep an eye on citrus for signs of gall wasp — this is the moment to get on top of it.

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Tropical Climates

(Think Darwin, Far North Queensland)

• May marks the beginning of the dry — warm days, little humidity, few storms.

• Ideal for sowing beans, cucumbers, capsicum, chillies, basil, and coriander.

• Keep the soil covered and shaded. Mulching becomes essential as the dry season sets in.

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Arid Climates

(Think Alice Springs, inland WA and SA)

• Crisp mornings, warm sun, and cooling soil.

• Garlic, peas, broad beans, spinach, silverbeet, and onions all go in now.

• Compost and mulch whatever you can — every scrap of organic matter counts in these landscapes.

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What May Teaches Us

May in Australia reminds me that gardens aren’t built on grand gestures. They’re shaped through small, consistent actions. Quiet choices. A bit of lifting and transplanting. A handful of seeds tucked into soft soil. Noticing what needs shifting — and having the patience to do it.

This month, I’ll be spending time clearing out the last of summer’s tangle at Little Cottage on a Hill, moving a few perennials that have outgrown their place, and quietly preparing the beds for winter crops.

It’s not about racing toward an end. It’s about tending what’s here — and trusting that the work of today will unfold, quietly and generously, in its own time.

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You may want to check out my related content below:

What to Plant in April: A Regional Autumn Guide for Australian Gardeners– Learn how to make the most of April’s golden gardening moment by sowing for the season ahead, no matter your climate.

Growing Pumpkins Up: Maximising Small Spaces for a Thriving Productive Garden – Learn how to maximise small for a Thriving Productive Garden.

Growing Zucchini: Space-Saving and Pollination Tips for an Abundant Harvest – Learn how to maximise space and boost pollination for a bountiful zucchini crop in your garden.

The Joy of Growing Strawberries: A Journey Through Every Climate – Explore how to successfully grow strawberries in different climates and enjoy a sweet, seasonal harvest.

Watering Deeply: The Key to Thriving, Resilient Plants – Watch my Instagram reel for tips on how deep watering helps your plants grow stronger with deeper roots.

Growing Soil: The Foundation to Vibrant Gardens and Nutrient-Dense Plants – Dive into my blog post where I explore how healthy soil is essential for supporting vibrant, thriving plants.

Want more seasonal garden guidance and behind-the-scenes updates?

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Wishing you slow days and small victories in your garden this May.

Natasha xx

For glimpses into workshops, daily life, and my thoughts from Little Cottage on a Hill, you can find me on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn, and YouTube. And if you’d like a more personal update, subscribe to my Newsletter for a monthly note on what’s growing, what’s inspiring me, and what’s next.

Click the links below to stay connected—I’d love to have you along for the journey.

Gardening Australia – The Response That Took My Breath Away

Well, gosh, I am blown away!

What an incredible response to last weekend’s feature on Gardening Australia. It was such an honour to share my story on the My Garden Path segment—an opportunity to reflect on this journey, the lessons learned, and what defines for me a life well lived.

Since it aired, my inbox has been overflowing with the kindest messages. So many comments, DMs, and emails of support. People have even stopped me in the street to say how much they enjoyed it. (Side note: If you do bump into me and I look a little awkward or laugh nervously, it’s because—maybe surprisingly—I’m actually an introvert! I love these conversations, but I’m not sure I’ll ever acclimatise to the attention.) Please know, though, that it means the world to me when you take the time to say hello, introduce yourself, or share your own story. Knowing that what I do resonates with others—that it sparks something in this crazy world—makes my day. More on that another time…

And then there are another 1000+ of you lovely humans who have found me for the first time since the episode aired! It’s truly wonderful to have you here.

A Space for Sharing, Learning, and Living Well

My hope for this space—whether you’ve been following along for years or have just arrived—is that it becomes a place where I can share the journey, skills, and knowledge I’ve built over a lifetime.

The past 12 years have been a lesson in what it really means to live well. Moving to the country, creating Oak & Monkey Puzzle—an idyllic, internationally recognised garden—navigating a pandemic, and now settling into my next chapter on a small block in Daylesford, squeezing in the very best of those country life lessons. Along the way, I’ve learned that true success has nothing to do with material things. Instead, it’s about the richness of experience, the rhythm of the seasons, and the deep contentment found in tending the land and sharing what I love.

I’ve grown more comfortable in my own skin. I’ve come to understand what an incredible gift it is to be called to the land, to plunge my hands into the soil, to create spaces that nourish both people and place. I’ve found the greatest joy in collaboration, conversation, and sharing knowledge—in those simple moments that remind me I’m exactly where I’m meant to be. The making of spaces. The passing on of skills. The quiet but profound reminder that what I do matters.

For those of you who are new here—welcome. It’s so so good to have you here. Please do reach out, say hello, and let me know what brought you here.

And if you didn’t get a chance to catch the full Gardening Australia episode, I’ve popped it right here for you to watch.

You may want to check my related content below:

Designing Gardens For All Seasons – Explore how to create a garden that evolves beautifully throughout the year.

My Favourite Ornamental Grasses: Movement, Texture, and Year-Round Interest – Discover how ornamental grasses like Miscanthus, Panicum, and Calamagrostis bring dynamic beauty to your garden through all seasons.

Explore my workshops:

~ Garden Design with Natasha Morgan – Craft a garden that balances structure, beauty, and functionality.

~  The Productive Garden with Natasha Morgan – Learn how to grow abundantly, no matter your space.

~ The Wicking Bed Garden with Natasha Morgan – Build a self-watering, water-wise garden for effortless growing.

~ Preserving The Seasons with Natasha Morgan – Capture seasonal flavours with time-honoured preserving techniques.

~ Introduction to Backyard Chicken Keeping with Saffron and Natasha  – Learn how to raise happy, healthy chickens at home.

With gratitude,

Natasha x

For glimpses into workshops, daily life, and my thoughts from Little Cottage on a Hill, you can find me on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn, and YouTube. And if you’d like a more personal update, subscribe to my Newsletter for a monthly note on what’s growing, what’s inspiring me, and what’s next.

Click the links below to stay connected—I’d love to have you along for the journey.

How to Grow Strawberries: A Guide for Every Climate

There’s something special about growing fruit that isn’t readily available at the grocer – varieties that are softer, richer in flavour, and simply not bred for commercial transport. Cambridge Rival is one of those rare treasures. With its soft, tender flesh and exceptional taste, this variety earned a remarkable 90/100 on the Diggers Club taste test – and it’s easy to see why.

In my garden, growing strawberries like Cambridge Rival is not just about the harvest but about reconnecting with what real food tastes like. Whether you garden in a cool climate or the warmer edges of the country, strawberries can be cultivated to suit every environment – with a little care and attention.

Here’s my guide to growing strawberries across Australia’s five climate zones so you, too, can savour fruit that money simply can’t buy.

Why Choose a Garden-Only Variety Like Cambridge Rival?

Commercial strawberries are bred to withstand transport, meaning they’re often firm, uniform, and robust – but flavour is secondary. Varieties like Cambridge Rival don’t make it to supermarket shelves because of their delicate, soft flesh. Instead, they thrive in home gardens, where fruit can be picked when perfectly ripe and enjoyed moments later.

It’s one of the simplest pleasures – and for me, it embodies living well.

Growing Strawberries Across Five Climate Types

Cool Climates 

Cool climates provide the winter chill strawberries love and reward you with sweet, concentrated flavour.

• Planting time: Late winter to early spring.

• Tips: Mulch heavily in winter to protect crowns from frost and keep fruit off damp soil.

• Care: Water regularly as the weather warms but avoid soggy conditions.

Temperate Climates

Perfectly balanced for strawberries, temperate zones allow plants to thrive with minimal fuss.

• Planting time: Early spring or late autumn.

• Tips: Add organic matter to improve the soil, and use straw mulch to retain moisture.

• Care: Net plants to keep birds away as fruit ripens – the soft-fleshed berries are irresistible.

Warm Climates 

Warm climates require extra attention to heat stress, but strawberries will flourish with care.

• Planting time: Late autumn through to early winter.

• Tips: Provide shade during extreme summer heat and mulch well to cool the roots.

•  Care: Water deeply in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves to prevent disease.

Subtropical Climates 

Humidity is the biggest challenge here, but good airflow and spacing will set your plants up for success.

• Planting time: Late autumn or early winter.

• Tips: Choose raised beds or pots to improve drainage and airflow.

• Care: Water consistently, and pick fruit early to avoid spoilage in humid conditions.

Arid Climates 

In arid areas, the key to growing strawberries is keeping moisture consistent without waterlogging.

• Planting time: Early autumn to establish plants before summer arrives.

•  Tips: Use pots or raised beds filled with well-draining soil. Position in morning sun and afternoon shade.

• Care: A drip irrigation system works wonders, delivering water directly to the roots where it’s needed most.

Caring for Your Strawberry Patch

Regardless of climate, strawberries are wonderfully adaptable when given the basics:

• Soil: Strawberries thrive in well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5). Work in plenty of compost and aged manure before planting.

• Sun: At least 6 hours of sunlight a day. In hotter climates, protect plants from harsh afternoon rays.

• Feeding: Use an organic, potassium-rich fertiliser during flowering and fruiting to encourage sweet, plump berries.

• Mulching: Straw mulch is essential for keeping fruit clean, retaining moisture, and preventing weeds.

• Spacing: Give plants 30–40 cm of space to allow good airflow – it helps prevent fungal diseases.

The Joy of Soft-Fleshed Berries

One of the greatest joys of growing Cambridge Rival – or any non-commercial variety – is tasting fruit at its best. Soft-fleshed strawberries are bursting with flavour because they ripen fully on the plant, unlike their firmer supermarket counterparts, which are often picked early to travel long distances.

In your garden, you can:

• Harvest ripe fruit daily during peak season.

• Share the experience – nothing delights family or friends more than a handful of fresh-picked strawberries.

• Preserve the surplus – their tender flesh makes the most exquisite jams, syrups, and desserts.

Small Spaces, Big Rewards

If space is limited, strawberries adapt beautifully to pots, hanging baskets, or vertical gardens. Containers let you manage soil quality and positioning, ensuring plants get the sunlight and protection they need. Place them on a sunny balcony or patio, and you’ll still enjoy a generous harvest.

The Reward of the Garden

Growing strawberries like Cambridge Rival is a quiet rebellion against the ordinary. These are berries you’ll never find in a plastic punnet – their delicate, soft flesh and extraordinary flavour are rewards only a gardener can enjoy.

Whether you’re in a cool, temperate, or subtropical climate, nurturing strawberries brings beauty, productivity, and the sweet satisfaction of something truly special.

So go on – plant your strawberries, tend them well, and savour each sun-warmed berry as if it were summer’s finest gift.

The joy of growing strawberries is not just in the harvest, but in reconnecting with the true taste of real, homegrown food.